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2023 - Church of Agia Fotini

Project Type

Photo Essay

Date

January, 2023

Location

Athens, Greece

Architect

Costas Papatheodorou

A few years back, a European travel magazine listed the world's most unusual buildings. To no surprise, Barcelona’s Sagrada Família claimed the top spot, yet it was the obscure Agia Fotini Church, set deep in rural Greece, that took second place.

Nestled in the northern fields of the Peloponnese, this church rises from the legendary land of Arcadia, a name meaning “land of abundance.” Surrounded by mountains and drenched in sunlight, this plain must dazzle in autumn when the harvest is full. The chapel, named after Agia Fotini—a saint who, after drinking Christ’s water, never thirsted again—offers only fleeting moments of light play, though its charm lies elsewhere.

Agia Fotini’s construction is almost mythical. Built without a drop of cement, its stones, timber, and reclaimed marble form a strikingly raw, timeless structure. The architect, once a civil servant, moved from Athens with his family in the 1960s to undertake the project. With just ten local craftsmen and no machinery, the team worked dawn till dusk for three years, creating a sacred space that seems almost self-manifested.

Discovering the church was sheer chance. On a winter’s day, I’d stopped at a local vineyard for wine, where the owner recommended Agia Fotini. Standing at a distance, I watched its strong, angular roof blur in the hazy light, feeling, for a moment, as if I’d glimpsed Pan himself—Arcadia’s wild guardian—hidden within its stones.

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